In our years of traveling throughout the Groveland-Yosemite region we often find ourselves on Highway 49, an intriguing route that is sometimes twisted, occasionally steep and always scenic. Our last trip took us up to Auburn and Placerville and both are noteworthy with great stops. This route is good for those approaching Yosemite from Tahoe, heading south from Interstate 80 or Highway 50.
We follow the route from the north heading south. Common throughout the length of this drive are the wineries and gold rush era history with plenty of other pleasurable distractions including theater and art, regional crafts, music, farmlands and oh...so much more!
Musical Snow Globes
We start at old town Auburn by finding the "Omelet shop", a little restaurant (who's name escapes me) in oldtown, downtown that specializes in serving omelets with 78 different recipes to choose from. I ordered the roast beef, tomato and red onion with a dollop of sour cream and it was delicious! Victor's was more traditional but just as enjoyable. This restaurant seems to collect an interesting crowd of local cowboys and characters.
Spend the hour checking out the cute shops in this area. We found a few that were note worthy including one of the loveliest nurseries, Belle Flore Gardens, (1125 Lincoln Way. 916-660-9701) located right in the middle of downtown at the Lincoln-High Street V. The shoppe is a work of art and I could have wandered their offerings for hours, instead we bought some mums and wandered down to Pioneer Motherlode Mining Co., also on Lincoln Way. This store has all the little bits a prospective gold panner might want and the big equipment a career miner needs. The store is at once high-tech with the floating pumps and old world with the pans and vials of gold flake. This was another stop I could have spent far more time in.
High street is at the intersection of the Nursery and Lincoln way and splits off up the hill a bit. Worthy of exploration with a few comfortable stops for a beverage break and night time live music.
We next head off to find the California Welcome Center where we have Hotel Charlotte and StayNearYosemite.com brochures distributed from. A very helpful staff. I bought two things here that were touristy-kitch. The first is one of those shake-it-up-and-it-snows globes with a carrot, and 2 charcoal bits and the heading: California Snow Man. The second was a vial with real California gold flakes and a certificate of authenticity. This makes a good discussion piece at the Hotel Charlotte, most folks haven't seen gold in its raw state
From Auburn we head south on 49 to Placerville. You will meander through some of the loveliest farm lands in the Sierra foothills. You will want to have on hand the El Dorado County Visitors Bureau publication, it maps out the agritourism stops (Farm Trails) and wineries along the way with a handy list of open times and schedules.
We chose to stay overnight in Placerville at the newly remodeled Cary House Hotel with a new owner. We very much enjoyed our stay here. The room was a one bedroom apartment with a living room and kitchen. The rate was under 0. Perhaps this was a midweek special. The breakfast was very light, requiring us to dine shortly after leaving. The Hotel sported beautiful antiques along side plastic relics. An odd juxtaposition that we hope the new owners will change, especially in the public hallways and lobby. Parking was free and we were centrally located in downtown and could walk everywhere.
We explored town looking for a good lunch stop before heading out to find the wine tasting stops. We "discovered" Powell's Steamer Co. on Main Street, (530) 626-1091, also under recent new ownership. Turns out we "rediscovered" Powell's for dinner too. Not much choice on a Monday night in Placerville.
Following the map and old memories we began seeking out winery tasting rooms. Our first find was Ursa Vineyards, a producer of wine we already know and enjoy and carry in our own restaurant. We have the California State Fair wine guide and see that Ursa has scored a double gold. We are ready to taste! Alas, it is Monday and Ursa is closed.
We scoot down the road a bit and find Jodar with a nice port to try out on our friends back in Groveland. I decide this is a good time to look at that handy El Dorado map with open/closed times. We find Madrona Vineyards to be near where we are and head for High Hill Road and the farm stops along the way. We bought a case of apples from High Hill Ranch and enjoyed some fudge from the Fudge Factory Farm before we found Madrona. Good wine and a beautiful setting!
Returning to Placerville we find ourselves looking for a good dinner with a nice wine list. We go where the Hotel recommends, Tomei's 384 on Main Street only to find that Monday is not a good day here either, though the restaurant looked like something we would enjoy. The menu was a tasty read, but we know nothing more than this. We walked around a bit and found a few chains type places and decided it would be better to go back to Powell's Steamer Co. again and try something else on the menu. We weren't disappointed. Others have since recommended Cafe Luna also on Main Street.
The next day we decide to head to Fair Play, famous for dozens of wineries. We are traveling on one of the loveliest roads, scenic and serene. Except on the weekends, none of these wineries are open for tastings, though the drive is worthy any day of the week.
Heading south again you come to the towns of Plymouth and Drytown. Small places who's history dates back to the Gold Rush. Plymouth is now a wine center with a great number of little wineries spread out to the east of town along a figure 8 route in the Shenandoah Valley.
Next we come to the charming towns of Amador City and Sutter Creek. Sadly, most folks will now miss these villages as they have just completed a bypass. If you are touring the area, make a point of going through, not around. Both of these outposts are just lovely.
In Amador City one finds but a dozen little shoppes in a distance of three blocks with one curve and then you are out of town again. A place we have hear raves on is the Imperial Hotel, once a stage coach stop, still serving food of great renown.
Sutter Creek is far larger than Amador City with several hotels, Bed & Breakfasts, galleries antiques, curios and restaurants lining Main Street. We stayed at the Hanford House, just around the corner from Main Street and were able to walk everywhere in the downtown area. We enjoyed wine tasting two doors down in a co-op featuring three vineyards. Not that the wine was great, but the art displays on the walls had me captivated.
We enjoyed a great traditional Italian meal at Bellotti's the cornerstone of the newly remodeled American Exchange Hotel and member of our own Yosemite Chamber of Commerce
Heading south again, one hits the county seat of Jackson and our frequent easterly turnoff to Lake Tahoe when we approach from the South. This is where we leave off this itinerary route. You can pick up more stops along the way from our Murphys itinerary.
California's Highway 49 - Gold Rush History, Wineries and Dining From Auburn & Placerville South
Lynn Upthagrove, along with her husband Victor, own the Hotel Charlotte, in Groveland, on the way to Yosemite. http://www.HotelCharlotte.com
